Paul Brooker and Margaret Hayward
- Published in print:
- 2018
- Published Online:
- July 2018
- ISBN:
- 9780198825395
- eISBN:
- 9780191864063
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/oso/9780198825395.003.0008
- Subject:
- Business and Management, Strategy
The Armani high-fashion example illustrates the importance of adaptive rational methods in his founding and developing of an iconic high-fashion firm. Armani adapted stylistically to fashion’s new ...
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The Armani high-fashion example illustrates the importance of adaptive rational methods in his founding and developing of an iconic high-fashion firm. Armani adapted stylistically to fashion’s new times in the 1970–80s by creating a new style catering for the career woman. His stylistic adaptation is compared with that of another famous Italian fashion designer, Versace, who instead modernized haute couture fashion and created a succession of glamourous styles. Both leaders exploited the same opportunity but in different ways. The third section compares these leaders’ legacies in the 1990s–2000s and assesses from a long-term perspective how capably they had used adaptive rational methods. The final section shifts the focus from fashion to the cosmetics industry and from Italy to the UK. Anita Roddick used adaptive rational methods to establish The Body Shop corporation in the 1970s–80s. However, she then abandoned rational methods with dire results for her corporation in the 1990s.Less
The Armani high-fashion example illustrates the importance of adaptive rational methods in his founding and developing of an iconic high-fashion firm. Armani adapted stylistically to fashion’s new times in the 1970–80s by creating a new style catering for the career woman. His stylistic adaptation is compared with that of another famous Italian fashion designer, Versace, who instead modernized haute couture fashion and created a succession of glamourous styles. Both leaders exploited the same opportunity but in different ways. The third section compares these leaders’ legacies in the 1990s–2000s and assesses from a long-term perspective how capably they had used adaptive rational methods. The final section shifts the focus from fashion to the cosmetics industry and from Italy to the UK. Anita Roddick used adaptive rational methods to establish The Body Shop corporation in the 1970s–80s. However, she then abandoned rational methods with dire results for her corporation in the 1990s.
Chantal Zabus
- Published in print:
- 2007
- Published Online:
- June 2013
- ISBN:
- 9780804756877
- eISBN:
- 9780804768375
- Item type:
- book
- Publisher:
- Stanford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.11126/stanford/9780804756877.001.0001
- Subject:
- Literature, Women's Literature
In the past five decades and over three generations, African women writers have introduced a new autobiographical discourse around their experience of excision that brings nuance to the female ...
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In the past five decades and over three generations, African women writers have introduced a new autobiographical discourse around their experience of excision that brings nuance to the female genital mutilation debate. Spanning pharaonic times through classical antiquity to the onset of the twenty-first century, this study shows how this experiential body of literature—encompassing English, Arabic, and French—goes far beyond such traditional topics as universalism and cultural relativism, by locating the female body as a site of liminality between European and African factions, subject and agent; consent and dissent; custom and human rights. Women across Africa's “excision belt” have broken away from the male discourses of anthropology and psychoanalysis and have fled from “the cult of culture” and from religious and patriarchal surveillance. They have relocated their struggle to the West, where they seek empowerment and wrestle with the law. While showing the limits of autobiography, this book interweaves Freudian hysteria, the surgical age, the world of high fashion, male circumcision's “fearful symmetry,” and Western body modification.Less
In the past five decades and over three generations, African women writers have introduced a new autobiographical discourse around their experience of excision that brings nuance to the female genital mutilation debate. Spanning pharaonic times through classical antiquity to the onset of the twenty-first century, this study shows how this experiential body of literature—encompassing English, Arabic, and French—goes far beyond such traditional topics as universalism and cultural relativism, by locating the female body as a site of liminality between European and African factions, subject and agent; consent and dissent; custom and human rights. Women across Africa's “excision belt” have broken away from the male discourses of anthropology and psychoanalysis and have fled from “the cult of culture” and from religious and patriarchal surveillance. They have relocated their struggle to the West, where they seek empowerment and wrestle with the law. While showing the limits of autobiography, this book interweaves Freudian hysteria, the surgical age, the world of high fashion, male circumcision's “fearful symmetry,” and Western body modification.
Micol Fontana
- Published in print:
- 2011
- Published Online:
- August 2015
- ISBN:
- 9780816675784
- eISBN:
- 9781452946337
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- University of Minnesota Press
- DOI:
- 10.5749/minnesota/9780816675784.003.0003
- Subject:
- Art, Visual Culture
This chapter presents a conversation with designer Micol Fontana, who at ninety-four, has lost none of her vivacity and energy. She recalls the 1950s and 1960s, when Rome became the capital of high ...
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This chapter presents a conversation with designer Micol Fontana, who at ninety-four, has lost none of her vivacity and energy. She recalls the 1950s and 1960s, when Rome became the capital of high fashion, the favorite of beautiful people, from princesses in exile to Hollywood actresses, from high-society ladies to artists. According to Micol, after 1948 “in the Italy that was ready to live its second rebirth, the cult of femininity exploded and immediately made converts. Not the cult of beauty…but of femininity, precisely, the new way of being a woman, joyful and carefree.” Arriving in Rome from the province of Reggio-Emilia in 1936, Micol and her late sisters, Giovanna and Zoe, worked as helpers in various seamstress workshops for several years. They later founded their first atelier, integrating themselves perfectly into the fabric of the big city and becoming the toast of foreigners staying in Rome.Less
This chapter presents a conversation with designer Micol Fontana, who at ninety-four, has lost none of her vivacity and energy. She recalls the 1950s and 1960s, when Rome became the capital of high fashion, the favorite of beautiful people, from princesses in exile to Hollywood actresses, from high-society ladies to artists. According to Micol, after 1948 “in the Italy that was ready to live its second rebirth, the cult of femininity exploded and immediately made converts. Not the cult of beauty…but of femininity, precisely, the new way of being a woman, joyful and carefree.” Arriving in Rome from the province of Reggio-Emilia in 1936, Micol and her late sisters, Giovanna and Zoe, worked as helpers in various seamstress workshops for several years. They later founded their first atelier, integrating themselves perfectly into the fabric of the big city and becoming the toast of foreigners staying in Rome.
