Christopher Hood
- Published in print:
- 2000
- Published Online:
- November 2003
- ISBN:
- 9780198297659
- eISBN:
- 9780191599484
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/0198297653.003.0008
- Subject:
- Political Science, Comparative Politics
Returns to the general question of what sort of science public management is or can be and how cultural theory can contribute to that science. If public management is (as suggested earlier) dominated ...
More
Returns to the general question of what sort of science public management is or can be and how cultural theory can contribute to that science. If public management is (as suggested earlier) dominated by rhetorical forms of argument, cultural theory can help take one step further than conventional analyses of rhetoric by differentiating rhetorical ‘families’—this theme is explored in this chapter, which looks at what a cultural‐theory framework can add to the analysis of public management as an arena for rhetoric, and aims to do three things. First, it briefly expands on a now familiar argument (noted in the first chapter)—that shifts in what counts as received ideas in public management work through a process of fashion and persuasion, not through proofs couched in strict deductive logic, controlled experiments, or even systematic analysis of all available cases. Second, and more ambitiously, it aims to bring together the analysis of rhetoric in public management with the four ways of doing public management that were explored in Part II, to show how each of those approaches can have its own rhetoric, in the sense of foreshortened proofs, analogies, and parables; the aim is to put a cultural‐theory perspective to work in a different way, to identify multiple rhetorics of public management. Third, it briefly develops the suggestion made in Chapters 1 and 2 that shifts (change) in received ideas about how to organize typically occur in a reactive way, through rejection of existing arrangements with their known faults, rather than through a positive process of reasoning from a blank slate.Less
Returns to the general question of what sort of science public management is or can be and how cultural theory can contribute to that science. If public management is (as suggested earlier) dominated by rhetorical forms of argument, cultural theory can help take one step further than conventional analyses of rhetoric by differentiating rhetorical ‘families’—this theme is explored in this chapter, which looks at what a cultural‐theory framework can add to the analysis of public management as an arena for rhetoric, and aims to do three things. First, it briefly expands on a now familiar argument (noted in the first chapter)—that shifts in what counts as received ideas in public management work through a process of fashion and persuasion, not through proofs couched in strict deductive logic, controlled experiments, or even systematic analysis of all available cases. Second, and more ambitiously, it aims to bring together the analysis of rhetoric in public management with the four ways of doing public management that were explored in Part II, to show how each of those approaches can have its own rhetoric, in the sense of foreshortened proofs, analogies, and parables; the aim is to put a cultural‐theory perspective to work in a different way, to identify multiple rhetorics of public management. Third, it briefly develops the suggestion made in Chapters 1 and 2 that shifts (change) in received ideas about how to organize typically occur in a reactive way, through rejection of existing arrangements with their known faults, rather than through a positive process of reasoning from a blank slate.
Olivia Khoo
- Published in print:
- 2007
- Published Online:
- September 2011
- ISBN:
- 9789622098794
- eISBN:
- 9789882207516
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Hong Kong University Press
- DOI:
- 10.5790/hongkong/9789622098794.003.0006
- Subject:
- Society and Culture, Asian Studies
This concluding chapter employs the metaphor of the heliotrope to characterize the Chinese exotic's regional turn towards a self-conscious Asian region. It also attempts to situate the Chinese exotic ...
More
This concluding chapter employs the metaphor of the heliotrope to characterize the Chinese exotic's regional turn towards a self-conscious Asian region. It also attempts to situate the Chinese exotic in relation to the larger systems that give it meaning and value, such as the cinema, popular fiction, food, and fashion cultures, and increasingly, the intra-regional interactions constructing the modern formation of Asia.Less
This concluding chapter employs the metaphor of the heliotrope to characterize the Chinese exotic's regional turn towards a self-conscious Asian region. It also attempts to situate the Chinese exotic in relation to the larger systems that give it meaning and value, such as the cinema, popular fiction, food, and fashion cultures, and increasingly, the intra-regional interactions constructing the modern formation of Asia.
Peter Coss
- Published in print:
- 2010
- Published Online:
- May 2010
- ISBN:
- 9780199560004
- eISBN:
- 9780191723094
- Item type:
- book
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780199560004.001.0001
- Subject:
- History, British and Irish Medieval History
This book examines the formative years of the English gentry. In doing so, it explains their lasting characteristics during a long history as a social elite, including adaptability to change and ...
More
This book examines the formative years of the English gentry. In doing so, it explains their lasting characteristics during a long history as a social elite, including adaptability to change and openness to upward mobility from below, chiefly from the professions. Revolving around the rich archive left by the Multons of Frampton in South Lincolnshire, the book explores the material culture of the gentry, their concern with fashion, and their obsession with display. It pays close attention to the visitors to their homes, and to the social relationships between men and women. The book shows that the gentry household was a literate community, within a literate local world, and he studies closely the consumption of literature, paying particular attention to household entertainment. Beyond their households, the gentry could assert their pre-eminence in the local community through involvement with the Church and the management of their estates. Treating the relationship between gentry and Church in both devotional and institutional terms, the book shows how religious practice was a means for the gentry to assert social dominance, and they increasingly treated the Church as a career path for their kin. Protecting their estates was of similar importance, and legal expertise was highly prized — it consequently provided a major means of entry into the gentry, as well as offering further opportunities for younger sons. Overall, the book reveals that the cultural horizons of the gentry were essentially local. Nevertheless there were wider dimensions, and the book concludes with observations on how national and chivalric concerns interacted with the rhythms of regional life.Less
This book examines the formative years of the English gentry. In doing so, it explains their lasting characteristics during a long history as a social elite, including adaptability to change and openness to upward mobility from below, chiefly from the professions. Revolving around the rich archive left by the Multons of Frampton in South Lincolnshire, the book explores the material culture of the gentry, their concern with fashion, and their obsession with display. It pays close attention to the visitors to their homes, and to the social relationships between men and women. The book shows that the gentry household was a literate community, within a literate local world, and he studies closely the consumption of literature, paying particular attention to household entertainment. Beyond their households, the gentry could assert their pre-eminence in the local community through involvement with the Church and the management of their estates. Treating the relationship between gentry and Church in both devotional and institutional terms, the book shows how religious practice was a means for the gentry to assert social dominance, and they increasingly treated the Church as a career path for their kin. Protecting their estates was of similar importance, and legal expertise was highly prized — it consequently provided a major means of entry into the gentry, as well as offering further opportunities for younger sons. Overall, the book reveals that the cultural horizons of the gentry were essentially local. Nevertheless there were wider dimensions, and the book concludes with observations on how national and chivalric concerns interacted with the rhythms of regional life.
Seo Young Park
- Published in print:
- 2021
- Published Online:
- January 2022
- ISBN:
- 9781501754265
- eISBN:
- 9781501754272
- Item type:
- book
- Publisher:
- Cornell University Press
- DOI:
- 10.7591/cornell/9781501754265.001.0001
- Subject:
- Society and Culture, Asian Studies
This book reveals the intense speed of garment production and everyday life in Dongdaemun, a lively market in Seoul, South Korea. Once the site of uprisings against oppressive working conditions in ...
More
This book reveals the intense speed of garment production and everyday life in Dongdaemun, a lively market in Seoul, South Korea. Once the site of uprisings against oppressive working conditions in the 1970s and 1980s, Dongdaemun has now become iconic for its creative economy, nightlife, fast-fashion factories, and shopping plazas. The book follows the work of people who witnessed and experienced the rapidly changing marketplace from the inside. Through this approach, it examines the meanings and politics of work in one of the world's most vibrant and dynamic global urban marketplaces. In doing so, it brings readers into close contact with the garment designers, workers, and traders who sustain the extraordinary speed of fast-fashion production and circulation, as well as the labor activists who challenge it. Attending to their narratives and practices of work, the book argues that speed, rather than being a singular drive of acceleration, is an entanglement of uneven paces of life, labor, the market, and the city itself. The book exposes the under-studied experiences with Dongdaemun fast fashion, peeling back layers of temporal politics of labor and urban space to record the human source of the speed that characterizes the never-ending movement of the 24-hour city.Less
This book reveals the intense speed of garment production and everyday life in Dongdaemun, a lively market in Seoul, South Korea. Once the site of uprisings against oppressive working conditions in the 1970s and 1980s, Dongdaemun has now become iconic for its creative economy, nightlife, fast-fashion factories, and shopping plazas. The book follows the work of people who witnessed and experienced the rapidly changing marketplace from the inside. Through this approach, it examines the meanings and politics of work in one of the world's most vibrant and dynamic global urban marketplaces. In doing so, it brings readers into close contact with the garment designers, workers, and traders who sustain the extraordinary speed of fast-fashion production and circulation, as well as the labor activists who challenge it. Attending to their narratives and practices of work, the book argues that speed, rather than being a singular drive of acceleration, is an entanglement of uneven paces of life, labor, the market, and the city itself. The book exposes the under-studied experiences with Dongdaemun fast fashion, peeling back layers of temporal politics of labor and urban space to record the human source of the speed that characterizes the never-ending movement of the 24-hour city.
Christel Lane and Jocelyn Probert
- Published in print:
- 2009
- Published Online:
- May 2009
- ISBN:
- 9780199214815
- eISBN:
- 9780191721779
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780199214815.003.0004
- Subject:
- Business and Management, International Business, Political Economy
This chapter provides an investigation of the following questions: why power passed from producers to retailers; how retailers utilize their dominance in the chain; and whether this imbalance of ...
More
This chapter provides an investigation of the following questions: why power passed from producers to retailers; how retailers utilize their dominance in the chain; and whether this imbalance of power may be found in all western clothing industries. To answer these questions, the chapter covers the following aspects of the German, UK, and US clothing retail sectors: their historical development and current structure, with a focus on the evolution of different retail channels; intensified competition and firms' responses of concentration and corporatization; the move to ‘private label’/store brands and the development of direct sourcing, i.e., sourcing without using domestic middleman firms; the strategy of increased market segmentation and the differing market positions, in interaction with consumption styles, adopted in each country; the development of ‘fast fashion’ and ‘just-in-time’ sourcing; and the internationalization of sales through foreign direct investment. The final section emphasises both the enduring divergences between national retail sectors and the differential degree of power retailers hold vis-à-vis domestic ‘manufacturers’ in each country but also points to some convergence tendencies.Less
This chapter provides an investigation of the following questions: why power passed from producers to retailers; how retailers utilize their dominance in the chain; and whether this imbalance of power may be found in all western clothing industries. To answer these questions, the chapter covers the following aspects of the German, UK, and US clothing retail sectors: their historical development and current structure, with a focus on the evolution of different retail channels; intensified competition and firms' responses of concentration and corporatization; the move to ‘private label’/store brands and the development of direct sourcing, i.e., sourcing without using domestic middleman firms; the strategy of increased market segmentation and the differing market positions, in interaction with consumption styles, adopted in each country; the development of ‘fast fashion’ and ‘just-in-time’ sourcing; and the internationalization of sales through foreign direct investment. The final section emphasises both the enduring divergences between national retail sectors and the differential degree of power retailers hold vis-à-vis domestic ‘manufacturers’ in each country but also points to some convergence tendencies.
Lynn S. Neal
- Published in print:
- 2019
- Published Online:
- September 2020
- ISBN:
- 9781479892709
- eISBN:
- 9781479810918
- Item type:
- book
- Publisher:
- NYU Press
- DOI:
- 10.18574/nyu/9781479892709.001.0001
- Subject:
- Religion, Church History
Religion in Vogue provides readers with a unique approach to the study of popular culture and American religion. Through its analysis of numerous primary sources ranging from fashion magazines to ...
More
Religion in Vogue provides readers with a unique approach to the study of popular culture and American religion. Through its analysis of numerous primary sources ranging from fashion magazines to runway shows, the book traces how Christian symbols and imagery became an increasingly prominent part of the fashion industry and designer apparel. Examining this trajectory illuminates the longstanding and evolving relationship between Christianity and fashion. To capture this complexity, each chapter focuses on a specific element of fashion that mediates Christian ideas and images, including print articles, advertisements, jewelry, and fashion designs. Religion in Vogue examines in-depth religious elements in fashion advertisements, the popularity of cross jewelry, Catholic inspirations in designer collections, and, of course, the appearance of the divine on designer garments. Chronicling this trajectory highlights how the fashion industry constructs a vibrant textual, visual, and material discourse on Christianity that exists alongside and intersects with more dominant and familiar religious narratives. This fashionable religion, an aestheticized Christianity, offers spiritual seekers a way to be simultaneously stylish and religious. In doing so, the world of fashion both shapes and reflects trends toward religious individualism and religious eclecticism that have dominated the religious landscape of the United States in the latter half of the twentieth century and the first quarter of the twenty-first. Religion in Vogue helps us better understand the changing American religious landscape in a novel and fascinating way.Less
Religion in Vogue provides readers with a unique approach to the study of popular culture and American religion. Through its analysis of numerous primary sources ranging from fashion magazines to runway shows, the book traces how Christian symbols and imagery became an increasingly prominent part of the fashion industry and designer apparel. Examining this trajectory illuminates the longstanding and evolving relationship between Christianity and fashion. To capture this complexity, each chapter focuses on a specific element of fashion that mediates Christian ideas and images, including print articles, advertisements, jewelry, and fashion designs. Religion in Vogue examines in-depth religious elements in fashion advertisements, the popularity of cross jewelry, Catholic inspirations in designer collections, and, of course, the appearance of the divine on designer garments. Chronicling this trajectory highlights how the fashion industry constructs a vibrant textual, visual, and material discourse on Christianity that exists alongside and intersects with more dominant and familiar religious narratives. This fashionable religion, an aestheticized Christianity, offers spiritual seekers a way to be simultaneously stylish and religious. In doing so, the world of fashion both shapes and reflects trends toward religious individualism and religious eclecticism that have dominated the religious landscape of the United States in the latter half of the twentieth century and the first quarter of the twenty-first. Religion in Vogue helps us better understand the changing American religious landscape in a novel and fascinating way.
Antoinette Burton
- Published in print:
- 2003
- Published Online:
- January 2010
- ISBN:
- 9780195144253
- eISBN:
- 9780199871919
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780195144253.003.0003
- Subject:
- History, Middle East History
This chapter discusses that Cornelia Sorabji was at the center of debates about the role that the zenana, and by extension the precints of house and home, should play in shaping modern Indian ...
More
This chapter discusses that Cornelia Sorabji was at the center of debates about the role that the zenana, and by extension the precints of house and home, should play in shaping modern Indian culture. It adds that Sorabji, a Parsi Christian who was trained as a barrister at Oxford in 1889-1892, aimed to improve the conditions for purdahnashin and publicizing those conditions to reform-minded audiences in Britain and India. It narrates that she used her legal skills and her official connections to investigate the homes and detail the lives of hundreds of “secluded” women in the first three decades of the 20th century. It tells of Sorabji's biography as well as her family's history. It suggests that Sorabji's determination to preserve her Purdahnashin in the domain of memory signals the uneven and unlooked-for terrains of colonial modernity itself.Less
This chapter discusses that Cornelia Sorabji was at the center of debates about the role that the zenana, and by extension the precints of house and home, should play in shaping modern Indian culture. It adds that Sorabji, a Parsi Christian who was trained as a barrister at Oxford in 1889-1892, aimed to improve the conditions for purdahnashin and publicizing those conditions to reform-minded audiences in Britain and India. It narrates that she used her legal skills and her official connections to investigate the homes and detail the lives of hundreds of “secluded” women in the first three decades of the 20th century. It tells of Sorabji's biography as well as her family's history. It suggests that Sorabji's determination to preserve her Purdahnashin in the domain of memory signals the uneven and unlooked-for terrains of colonial modernity itself.
Sarah M. S. Pearsall
- Published in print:
- 2008
- Published Online:
- January 2009
- ISBN:
- 9780199532995
- eISBN:
- 9780191714443
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780199532995.003.0010
- Subject:
- History, Social History
This concluding chapter briefly surveys the central themes and arguments of the book. It also revises notions of ‘self-fashioning’ and the alleged emergence of the modern self in the 18th century. ...
More
This concluding chapter briefly surveys the central themes and arguments of the book. It also revises notions of ‘self-fashioning’ and the alleged emergence of the modern self in the 18th century. ‘Self-fashioning’ worked in tandem with fashioning others, in ways both strategic and internalized. Understanding the nebulous origins of the modern self requires first understanding what had to be stripped away, at least partially, to make room for that self: chief among these attenuated entities was the family. The rise of independent selfhood generated a host of anxieties about social connections of all sorts. Many used letters to remain attached and to alleviate the painful uncertainties they faced. The conclusion also calls for greater attention to the family in this period.Less
This concluding chapter briefly surveys the central themes and arguments of the book. It also revises notions of ‘self-fashioning’ and the alleged emergence of the modern self in the 18th century. ‘Self-fashioning’ worked in tandem with fashioning others, in ways both strategic and internalized. Understanding the nebulous origins of the modern self requires first understanding what had to be stripped away, at least partially, to make room for that self: chief among these attenuated entities was the family. The rise of independent selfhood generated a host of anxieties about social connections of all sorts. Many used letters to remain attached and to alleviate the painful uncertainties they faced. The conclusion also calls for greater attention to the family in this period.
Virgil K.Y. Ho
- Published in print:
- 2005
- Published Online:
- February 2006
- ISBN:
- 9780199282715
- eISBN:
- 9780191603037
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/0199282714.003.0003
- Subject:
- Economics and Finance, Economic History
The Cantonese displayed acceptance of Westerners and their cultures in the late imperial and Republican period, in spite of their reputation for being xenophobic and anti-foreign since the days of ...
More
The Cantonese displayed acceptance of Westerners and their cultures in the late imperial and Republican period, in spite of their reputation for being xenophobic and anti-foreign since the days of the Opium War. Many people in Canton adopted an unmistakably pro-West attitude, from popular favourable perceptions of such foreign ‘imperialist enclaves’ as Hong Kong and Shameen to the advocacy for total Westernization by senior academics from a Canton university. Despite its much propagated anti-imperialist stance, the local nationalist government was, in reality, highly conciliatory when dealing with foreign powers.Less
The Cantonese displayed acceptance of Westerners and their cultures in the late imperial and Republican period, in spite of their reputation for being xenophobic and anti-foreign since the days of the Opium War. Many people in Canton adopted an unmistakably pro-West attitude, from popular favourable perceptions of such foreign ‘imperialist enclaves’ as Hong Kong and Shameen to the advocacy for total Westernization by senior academics from a Canton university. Despite its much propagated anti-imperialist stance, the local nationalist government was, in reality, highly conciliatory when dealing with foreign powers.
Catherine Kovesi Killerby
- Published in print:
- 2002
- Published Online:
- January 2010
- ISBN:
- 9780199247936
- eISBN:
- 9780191714733
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780199247936.003.0008
- Subject:
- History, European Medieval History
This chapter examines the provisions made for the enforcement of sumptuary law, the instances of prosecutions that have so far been discovered, and the possible reasons for the ultimate failure of ...
More
This chapter examines the provisions made for the enforcement of sumptuary law, the instances of prosecutions that have so far been discovered, and the possible reasons for the ultimate failure of sumptuary legislation. It shows that rulers employed various methods in order to ensure that all the relevant members of the population were aware that sumptuary laws were in force and what these laws prohibited, and that they were properly enforced. It adds that the majority of prosecutions that were discovered dealt with women who had violated the clothing laws. It argues that the primary cause of failure of sumptuary laws was associated with the job for which the legislation was designed. It explains that legislative regulation of fashion proved impossible to the legislators for they still had to identify luxurious clothing by employing specific fashion terminology. It also presents several criticisms made against sumptuary laws.Less
This chapter examines the provisions made for the enforcement of sumptuary law, the instances of prosecutions that have so far been discovered, and the possible reasons for the ultimate failure of sumptuary legislation. It shows that rulers employed various methods in order to ensure that all the relevant members of the population were aware that sumptuary laws were in force and what these laws prohibited, and that they were properly enforced. It adds that the majority of prosecutions that were discovered dealt with women who had violated the clothing laws. It argues that the primary cause of failure of sumptuary laws was associated with the job for which the legislation was designed. It explains that legislative regulation of fashion proved impossible to the legislators for they still had to identify luxurious clothing by employing specific fashion terminology. It also presents several criticisms made against sumptuary laws.
Anna Wierzbicka
- Published in print:
- 2001
- Published Online:
- November 2003
- ISBN:
- 9780195137330
- eISBN:
- 9780199867905
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/0195137337.003.0001
- Subject:
- Religion, Biblical Studies
The Introduction argues that, despite the current fashions in scholarly circles, it is possible to unambiguously determine what Jesus meant in his parables and our sayings, and to explain it in a way ...
More
The Introduction argues that, despite the current fashions in scholarly circles, it is possible to unambiguously determine what Jesus meant in his parables and our sayings, and to explain it in a way that is both simple and clear. The key to such an explanation lies in the use of 60 or so simple and universal human concepts, which have been identified through empirical cross‐linguistic investigations, as a shared core of all languages. These concepts include GOOD and BAD, SOMEONE and SOMETHING, KNOW, THINK, WANT, FEEL IF and BECAUSE, and 50 or so others. The chapter emphasizes the importance of Jesus’ Jewish context for the understanding of his teaching and it shows how the use of universal human concepts allows us to separate the universal content of Jesus’ teaching from its historical and cultural embedding. While the author identifies herself as a Roman Catholic, the perspective on the Gospels adopted in this chapter (and in the book as a whole) is broadly ecumenical, including Catholic, Protestant, and Eastern Christian tradition, as well as the writings of Jewish scholars.Less
The Introduction argues that, despite the current fashions in scholarly circles, it is possible to unambiguously determine what Jesus meant in his parables and our sayings, and to explain it in a way that is both simple and clear. The key to such an explanation lies in the use of 60 or so simple and universal human concepts, which have been identified through empirical cross‐linguistic investigations, as a shared core of all languages. These concepts include GOOD and BAD, SOMEONE and SOMETHING, KNOW, THINK, WANT, FEEL IF and BECAUSE, and 50 or so others. The chapter emphasizes the importance of Jesus’ Jewish context for the understanding of his teaching and it shows how the use of universal human concepts allows us to separate the universal content of Jesus’ teaching from its historical and cultural embedding. While the author identifies herself as a Roman Catholic, the perspective on the Gospels adopted in this chapter (and in the book as a whole) is broadly ecumenical, including Catholic, Protestant, and Eastern Christian tradition, as well as the writings of Jewish scholars.
Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén
- Published in print:
- 2021
- Published Online:
- January 2022
- ISBN:
- 9781474461801
- eISBN:
- 9781399501576
- Item type:
- book
- Publisher:
- Edinburgh University Press
- DOI:
- 10.3366/edinburgh/9781474461801.001.0001
- Subject:
- Film, Television and Radio, Film
The Academy Awards’ red-carpet is the most prominent fashion show in media culture. This book investigates the historical liaison between Hollywood and fashion institutions to describe how public ...
More
The Academy Awards’ red-carpet is the most prominent fashion show in media culture. This book investigates the historical liaison between Hollywood and fashion institutions to describe how public relations campaigns and the media articulated fashion discourses around the Oscars throughout history. It argues that the fashion industry’s business model of celebrity endorsement and renowned designers as branded labels is based on the triangulation done by Hollywood studios, department stores, and American garment manufacturers during the interwar era. Departing from archival sources, and tracing discourses of fashion, stardom, and celebrity around Hollywood and the Oscars, this study unravels this phenomenon’s cultural, political and economic impact, explaining how the Academy Awards’ red-carpet became a marquee for the global endorsement of high-end fashion brands.
The book addresses globalisation as a central topic to frame the red-carpet phenomenon, linking the fashion and media industries throughout the 20th Century. It points at the postwar as a historical turning point that consolidated the position of the United States as a veritable behemoth exporter of popular culture, depicting the American lifestyle as synonymous with wealth and comfort to further the global expansion of consumer culture. The book identifies power shift towards television, the emergence of celebrity culture, the post-war reactivation of transatlantic trade, the growth of fashion journalism, and the increasing circulation of designer names in the media as a series of converging factors that led to the institutionalisation of the red-carpet parade as a fashion event in its own right.Less
The Academy Awards’ red-carpet is the most prominent fashion show in media culture. This book investigates the historical liaison between Hollywood and fashion institutions to describe how public relations campaigns and the media articulated fashion discourses around the Oscars throughout history. It argues that the fashion industry’s business model of celebrity endorsement and renowned designers as branded labels is based on the triangulation done by Hollywood studios, department stores, and American garment manufacturers during the interwar era. Departing from archival sources, and tracing discourses of fashion, stardom, and celebrity around Hollywood and the Oscars, this study unravels this phenomenon’s cultural, political and economic impact, explaining how the Academy Awards’ red-carpet became a marquee for the global endorsement of high-end fashion brands.
The book addresses globalisation as a central topic to frame the red-carpet phenomenon, linking the fashion and media industries throughout the 20th Century. It points at the postwar as a historical turning point that consolidated the position of the United States as a veritable behemoth exporter of popular culture, depicting the American lifestyle as synonymous with wealth and comfort to further the global expansion of consumer culture. The book identifies power shift towards television, the emergence of celebrity culture, the post-war reactivation of transatlantic trade, the growth of fashion journalism, and the increasing circulation of designer names in the media as a series of converging factors that led to the institutionalisation of the red-carpet parade as a fashion event in its own right.
Simidele Dosekun
- Published in print:
- 2020
- Published Online:
- January 2021
- ISBN:
- 9780252043215
- eISBN:
- 9780252052095
- Item type:
- book
- Publisher:
- University of Illinois Press
- DOI:
- 10.5622/illinois/9780252043215.001.0001
- Subject:
- Society and Culture, Gender Studies
This book concerns young, class-privileged women in the Nigerian city of Lagos who dress in a “spectacularly feminine” style characterised by the extravagant use and combination of normatively ...
More
This book concerns young, class-privileged women in the Nigerian city of Lagos who dress in a “spectacularly feminine” style characterised by the extravagant use and combination of normatively feminine technologies of dress: cascading hair extensions, false eyelashes and nails, heavy and immaculate makeup, and so on. Based on interviews with such stylized women, the book offers a critical consideration of the kinds of feminine subjectivities that they are performing and desiring. Tracing the repertoires of individualist choice, pleasure, entitlement and “can do” that run through the women’s talk, it argues that they subscribe passionately to the notion, or what the book frames more specifically as the “postfeminist promise,” that immaculate and spectacularized feminine beauty now constitutes and signals feminine power. Seeing themselves as “already empowered,” then, what the women do not see is the need for cultural critique, nor for feminism in the form of collective political struggle. The first book on postfeminism both as a cultural formation in the global South and as it interpellates black women, the work offers a groundbreaking new understanding of the culture as performative and transnationally mobile, and a richly theorised account of how women live, embody, and to some extent suffer it, in the flesh.Less
This book concerns young, class-privileged women in the Nigerian city of Lagos who dress in a “spectacularly feminine” style characterised by the extravagant use and combination of normatively feminine technologies of dress: cascading hair extensions, false eyelashes and nails, heavy and immaculate makeup, and so on. Based on interviews with such stylized women, the book offers a critical consideration of the kinds of feminine subjectivities that they are performing and desiring. Tracing the repertoires of individualist choice, pleasure, entitlement and “can do” that run through the women’s talk, it argues that they subscribe passionately to the notion, or what the book frames more specifically as the “postfeminist promise,” that immaculate and spectacularized feminine beauty now constitutes and signals feminine power. Seeing themselves as “already empowered,” then, what the women do not see is the need for cultural critique, nor for feminism in the form of collective political struggle. The first book on postfeminism both as a cultural formation in the global South and as it interpellates black women, the work offers a groundbreaking new understanding of the culture as performative and transnationally mobile, and a richly theorised account of how women live, embody, and to some extent suffer it, in the flesh.
Christian Laes
- Published in print:
- 2010
- Published Online:
- January 2011
- ISBN:
- 9780199582570
- eISBN:
- 9780191595271
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780199582570.003.0011
- Subject:
- Classical Studies, European History: BCE to 500CE
The chapter is a socio-cultural study on Roman pet children, based on a minute analysis of Statius' poetry. It shows how Roman owners of delicia coped with the low social status of these pet ...
More
The chapter is a socio-cultural study on Roman pet children, based on a minute analysis of Statius' poetry. It shows how Roman owners of delicia coped with the low social status of these pet children, and how they tried to mask this status. Further, attention is paid to the physical and emotional depiction of these children, as well as to how they served the self-fashioning of their patrons or the poet. Finally, the question is asked whether it is possible to (re)write history from the side of these pet children themselves.Less
The chapter is a socio-cultural study on Roman pet children, based on a minute analysis of Statius' poetry. It shows how Roman owners of delicia coped with the low social status of these pet children, and how they tried to mask this status. Further, attention is paid to the physical and emotional depiction of these children, as well as to how they served the self-fashioning of their patrons or the poet. Finally, the question is asked whether it is possible to (re)write history from the side of these pet children themselves.
Paul Marshall
- Published in print:
- 2005
- Published Online:
- February 2006
- ISBN:
- 9780199279432
- eISBN:
- 9780191603440
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/0199279438.003.0010
- Subject:
- Religion, Philosophy of Religion
Two general approaches to the explanation of extrovertive mystical experience have emerged as tenable, centred respectively on the intrapersonal psychological and biological factors of naturalistic ...
More
Two general approaches to the explanation of extrovertive mystical experience have emerged as tenable, centred respectively on the intrapersonal psychological and biological factors of naturalistic science, and the transpersonal factors of religious and metaphysical thought. The contributions of religious and cultural context undoubtedly have a supporting role, but they do not appear to be fundamental. At present, it is not possible to decide between naturalistic or transpersonal explanation, but evidence from parapsychology, neuroscience, and physics may help to swing the matter one way or the other. The author favours explanation in which transpersonal factors are made fundamental, with intrapersonal, contextual, and collective factors given supporting roles.Less
Two general approaches to the explanation of extrovertive mystical experience have emerged as tenable, centred respectively on the intrapersonal psychological and biological factors of naturalistic science, and the transpersonal factors of religious and metaphysical thought. The contributions of religious and cultural context undoubtedly have a supporting role, but they do not appear to be fundamental. At present, it is not possible to decide between naturalistic or transpersonal explanation, but evidence from parapsychology, neuroscience, and physics may help to swing the matter one way or the other. The author favours explanation in which transpersonal factors are made fundamental, with intrapersonal, contextual, and collective factors given supporting roles.
Michael S. C. Thomas, James L. McClelland, Fiona M. Richardson, Anna C. Schapiro, and Frank D. Baughman
- Published in print:
- 2009
- Published Online:
- September 2009
- ISBN:
- 9780195300598
- eISBN:
- 9780199867165
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780195300598.003.0017
- Subject:
- Psychology, Cognitive Psychology, Developmental Psychology
A tension has existed between connectionism and dynamic systems theory (DST), and this chapter considers why this should be the case. The chapter argues that much of the tension arises from a tenet ...
More
A tension has existed between connectionism and dynamic systems theory (DST), and this chapter considers why this should be the case. The chapter argues that much of the tension arises from a tenet that the two approaches share: they both rely on the explicit, quantitative instantiation of ideas in mathematical or computational models. The use of such models is responsible for much of the theoretical progress generated by connectionism and DST beyond the theories of good old-fashioned cognitive development (GOFCD). But the use of explicit, quantitative models brings with it a new set of problems. The chapter discusses several consequences of the use of such models and considers three points of apparent disagreement between connectionism and DST.Less
A tension has existed between connectionism and dynamic systems theory (DST), and this chapter considers why this should be the case. The chapter argues that much of the tension arises from a tenet that the two approaches share: they both rely on the explicit, quantitative instantiation of ideas in mathematical or computational models. The use of such models is responsible for much of the theoretical progress generated by connectionism and DST beyond the theories of good old-fashioned cognitive development (GOFCD). But the use of explicit, quantitative models brings with it a new set of problems. The chapter discusses several consequences of the use of such models and considers three points of apparent disagreement between connectionism and DST.
Siobhán McIlvanney
- Published in print:
- 2019
- Published Online:
- May 2020
- ISBN:
- 9781786941886
- eISBN:
- 9781789623215
- Item type:
- book
- Publisher:
- Liverpool University Press
- DOI:
- 10.3828/liverpool/9781786941886.001.0001
- Subject:
- History, European Modern History
This book examines the origins of the early French women’s press and traces the evolving representations of womanhood that appear over the first ninety years of women’s journals in France. It argues ...
More
This book examines the origins of the early French women’s press and traces the evolving representations of womanhood that appear over the first ninety years of women’s journals in France. It argues that this critically neglected medium offers a key source of information on French women’s personal and political aspirations by giving us a privileged insight into their everyday lives. The early women’s press represented an important means of allowing women to access and contribute to the key cultural, intellectual and political debates which dominated French society at the time and which directly influenced their position within it. This book highlights the political, feminist potential of this medium written by women for women. Through textual analyses of different ‘generic’ subsections, whether the literary journal, the fashion journal, the domestic press or more explicitly politicised outputs, this book challenges the critical commonplaces that have been applied to the women’s press, both in France and elsewhere. As the first comprehensive study in English of these origins, this book demonstrates the political richness of this medium and the key perspectives it gives us on female self-expression and on the everyday lives of women from across the class spectrum during this key historical period.Less
This book examines the origins of the early French women’s press and traces the evolving representations of womanhood that appear over the first ninety years of women’s journals in France. It argues that this critically neglected medium offers a key source of information on French women’s personal and political aspirations by giving us a privileged insight into their everyday lives. The early women’s press represented an important means of allowing women to access and contribute to the key cultural, intellectual and political debates which dominated French society at the time and which directly influenced their position within it. This book highlights the political, feminist potential of this medium written by women for women. Through textual analyses of different ‘generic’ subsections, whether the literary journal, the fashion journal, the domestic press or more explicitly politicised outputs, this book challenges the critical commonplaces that have been applied to the women’s press, both in France and elsewhere. As the first comprehensive study in English of these origins, this book demonstrates the political richness of this medium and the key perspectives it gives us on female self-expression and on the everyday lives of women from across the class spectrum during this key historical period.
Karen W. Tice
- Published in print:
- 2012
- Published Online:
- May 2012
- ISBN:
- 9780199842780
- eISBN:
- 9780199933440
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780199842780.003.0005
- Subject:
- Sociology, Gender and Sexuality
Black campus queens have long invested in etiquette, middle-class proficiencies, and fashion to advance positive racial representations and identities, honor legacies, and counter white racism. ...
More
Black campus queens have long invested in etiquette, middle-class proficiencies, and fashion to advance positive racial representations and identities, honor legacies, and counter white racism. Contestants in ethnic pageants commonly assert distinctive aspirations for beauty pageantry including the advancement of racially- and culturally-specific agendas that promote black colleges, the cultivation of community and racial solidarities, and the creation of restorative homeplaces, not simply self-advancement and personal mobility. By examining pageant rituals on historically black college campuses and black-only pageants on predominantly white campuses, this chapter includes a discussion of the oppositional possibilities of black pageants and the contradictions of representing cultural complexity and political agendas through beauty, fashion, and dance. It probes whether the beauty pageant format can be stretched to accommodate cultural and racial agendas without replicating gendered and classed hierarchies and whether or not such pageants allow for opportunities to subvert hegemonic racialized gendered codes and practices.Less
Black campus queens have long invested in etiquette, middle-class proficiencies, and fashion to advance positive racial representations and identities, honor legacies, and counter white racism. Contestants in ethnic pageants commonly assert distinctive aspirations for beauty pageantry including the advancement of racially- and culturally-specific agendas that promote black colleges, the cultivation of community and racial solidarities, and the creation of restorative homeplaces, not simply self-advancement and personal mobility. By examining pageant rituals on historically black college campuses and black-only pageants on predominantly white campuses, this chapter includes a discussion of the oppositional possibilities of black pageants and the contradictions of representing cultural complexity and political agendas through beauty, fashion, and dance. It probes whether the beauty pageant format can be stretched to accommodate cultural and racial agendas without replicating gendered and classed hierarchies and whether or not such pageants allow for opportunities to subvert hegemonic racialized gendered codes and practices.
John Potvin
- Published in print:
- 2020
- Published Online:
- May 2021
- ISBN:
- 9781526134790
- eISBN:
- 9781526158284
- Item type:
- book
- Publisher:
- Manchester University Press
- DOI:
- 10.7765/9781526134806
- Subject:
- Art, Design
Richly illustrated with over 110 colour and black and white images, the book productively contests the supposedly exclusive feminine aspect of the stylemoderne (art deco). It explores how ...
More
Richly illustrated with over 110 colour and black and white images, the book productively contests the supposedly exclusive feminine aspect of the stylemoderne (art deco). It explores how alternative, parallel and overlapping experiences and expressions of decorative modernism, nationalism, gender and sexuality in the heady years surrounding World War I converge in the protean figure of the deco dandy. As such, the book significantly departs from and corrects the assumptions and biases that have dominated scholarship on and popular perceptions of art deco. The book outlines how designed products and representations of and for the dandy both existed within and outwith normative expectations of gender and sexuality complicating men’s relationship to consumer culture more broadly and the moderne more specifically. Through a sustained focus on the figure of the dandy, the book offers a broader view of art deco by claiming a greater place for the male body and masculinity in this history than has been given to date. The mass appeal of the dandy in the 1920s was a way to redeploy an iconic, popular and well-known typology as a means to stimulate national industries, to engender a desire for all things made in France. Important, essential and productive moments in the history of the cultural life of Paris presented in the book are instructive of the changing role performed by consumerism, masculinity, design history and national identity.Less
Richly illustrated with over 110 colour and black and white images, the book productively contests the supposedly exclusive feminine aspect of the stylemoderne (art deco). It explores how alternative, parallel and overlapping experiences and expressions of decorative modernism, nationalism, gender and sexuality in the heady years surrounding World War I converge in the protean figure of the deco dandy. As such, the book significantly departs from and corrects the assumptions and biases that have dominated scholarship on and popular perceptions of art deco. The book outlines how designed products and representations of and for the dandy both existed within and outwith normative expectations of gender and sexuality complicating men’s relationship to consumer culture more broadly and the moderne more specifically. Through a sustained focus on the figure of the dandy, the book offers a broader view of art deco by claiming a greater place for the male body and masculinity in this history than has been given to date. The mass appeal of the dandy in the 1920s was a way to redeploy an iconic, popular and well-known typology as a means to stimulate national industries, to engender a desire for all things made in France. Important, essential and productive moments in the history of the cultural life of Paris presented in the book are instructive of the changing role performed by consumerism, masculinity, design history and national identity.
Kent Puckett
- Published in print:
- 2009
- Published Online:
- January 2009
- ISBN:
- 9780195332759
- eISBN:
- 9780199868131
- Item type:
- chapter
- Publisher:
- Oxford University Press
- DOI:
- 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780195332759.003.0004
- Subject:
- Literature, Criticism/Theory, 19th-century and Victorian Literature
George Eliot’s most successful characters tend to show a marked disdain for the fluctuations of fashion. Felix Holt, Dorothea Brooke, Daniel Deronda: all of these are represented as figures who ...
More
George Eliot’s most successful characters tend to show a marked disdain for the fluctuations of fashion. Felix Holt, Dorothea Brooke, Daniel Deronda: all of these are represented as figures who couldn’t care less about what’s in style at any given moment. This chapter works to understand how the novel as a system is able to produce the effect of stylelessness in the novel and at what cost. It argues, in other words, that in all of Eliot’s novels and especially in Middlemarch, the absence of style is the result not only of rigged comparisons with those who have already fallen into mere stylishness, but also of competitions between differently valued narrative techniques. That is, at exactly the moment when we would expect Middlemarch to be its best, we find it passionately caught up in a game it seemed at first unwilling even to play.Less
George Eliot’s most successful characters tend to show a marked disdain for the fluctuations of fashion. Felix Holt, Dorothea Brooke, Daniel Deronda: all of these are represented as figures who couldn’t care less about what’s in style at any given moment. This chapter works to understand how the novel as a system is able to produce the effect of stylelessness in the novel and at what cost. It argues, in other words, that in all of Eliot’s novels and especially in Middlemarch, the absence of style is the result not only of rigged comparisons with those who have already fallen into mere stylishness, but also of competitions between differently valued narrative techniques. That is, at exactly the moment when we would expect Middlemarch to be its best, we find it passionately caught up in a game it seemed at first unwilling even to play.
