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The Geography of Weaving: South India in the Early Nineteenth Century

Karuna Dietrich Wielenga

in Weaving Histories: The Transformation of the Handloom Industry in South India, 1800-1960

Published in print:
2020
Published Online:
January 2022
ISBN:
9780197266731
eISBN:
9780191955464
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
British Academy
DOI:
10.5871/bacad/9780197266731.003.0002
Subject:
History, Economic History

This chapter uses company paintings, loom tax records, data on cloth trade and descriptive records to reconstruct the very diverse world of weaving in early nineteenth century India. It provides the ... More


From Goodwill to Grunge: A History of Secondhand Styles and Alternative Economies

Jennifer Le Zotte

Published in print:
2017
Published Online:
September 2017
ISBN:
9781469631905
eISBN:
9781469631929
Item type:
book
Publisher:
University of North Carolina Press
DOI:
10.5149/northcarolina/9781469631905.001.0001
Subject:
History, American History: 20th Century

In this surprising new look at how clothing, style, and commerce came together to change American culture, Jennifer Le Zotte examines how secondhand goods sold at thrift stores, flea markets, and ... More


Commonwealth Preference: The Third Piece of Paper

Lawrence W. R. Mills

in Protecting Free Trade: The Hong Kong Paradox, 1947–97

Published in print:
2012
Published Online:
September 2012
ISBN:
9789888083985
eISBN:
9789882209084
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Hong Kong University Press
DOI:
10.5790/hongkong/9789888083985.003.0005
Subject:
Economics and Finance, South and East Asia

Commonwealth preference was a system of trade co-operation giving varying degrees of preference to products from members of the British Commonwealth. As a British colony, Hong Kong was eligible for ... More


“Unions with Brains” (1930)

The Nation

in Jewish Radicals: A Documentary History

Published in print:
2012
Published Online:
March 2016
ISBN:
9780814757437
eISBN:
9780814763469
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
NYU Press
DOI:
10.18574/nyu/9780814757437.003.0021
Subject:
History, Cultural History

This chapter extols both the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America and the International Ladies' Garment Workers Union for their innovations in the areas of education, social welfare, racial ... More


“Charlatans and Gangsters and Pompous Racketeers” (1938)

Jennie Cohen

in Jewish Radicals: A Documentary History

Published in print:
2012
Published Online:
March 2016
ISBN:
9780814757437
eISBN:
9780814763469
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
NYU Press
DOI:
10.18574/nyu/9780814757437.003.0025
Subject:
History, Cultural History

This chapter shows that corruption can plague even the progressive, well-managed unions. It presents a letter of protest by Jennie Cohen, a former member of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of ... More


Naked natives and noble savages: the cultural work of nakedness in imperial Britain

Philippa Levine

in The Cultural Construction of the British World

Published in print:
2015
Published Online:
May 2016
ISBN:
9780719097898
eISBN:
9781526104403
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Manchester University Press
DOI:
10.7228/manchester/9780719097898.003.0001
Subject:
History, Imperialism and Colonialism

By the middle of the eighteenth century, and as European colonialism became a dominating political force, the naked body had come to represent the savagery and backwardness of colonized and ... More


Introduction

Matter Carson

in A Matter of Moral Justice: Black Women Laundry Workers and the Fight for Justice

Published in print:
2021
Published Online:
January 2022
ISBN:
9780252043901
eISBN:
9780252052804
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of Illinois Press
DOI:
10.5622/illinois/9780252043901.003.0001
Subject:
History, African-American History

The introductory chapter introduces the reader to the key arguments, themes, events, and protagonists in this book about power laundry workers, which spans and discusses the early twentieth-century ... More


“It Was Like the Salvation”: New York City’s Laundry Workers Join the CIO

Matter Carson

in A Matter of Moral Justice: Black Women Laundry Workers and the Fight for Justice

Published in print:
2021
Published Online:
January 2022
ISBN:
9780252043901
eISBN:
9780252052804
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of Illinois Press
DOI:
10.5622/illinois/9780252043901.003.0008
Subject:
History, African-American History

In 1937 thousands of laundry workers gathered at the Rand School of Social Science, where they voted unanimously to abandon the AFL and join the newly organized CIO. After a few months of organizing ... More


There’s No Place Like Home: Gender, Family, and the Confederate Alabama Household

Victoria E. Ott (ed.)

in War Matters: Material Culture in the Civil War Era

Published in print:
2018
Published Online:
May 2019
ISBN:
9781469643205
eISBN:
9781469643229
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of North Carolina Press
DOI:
10.5149/northcarolina/9781469643205.003.0009
Subject:
History, American History: 19th Century

The plain folk of Alabama who supported the Confederacy used household objects to craft a new identity. To express that identity, they made military uniforms and supplied foodstuffs for soldiers. But ... More


Dress, Adornment, and the Body in the Hebrew Bible

Laura Quick

Published in print:
2021
Published Online:
March 2021
ISBN:
9780198856818
eISBN:
9780191889967
Item type:
book
Publisher:
Oxford University Press
DOI:
10.1093/oso/9780198856818.001.0001
Subject:
Religion, Biblical Studies

Dress, Adornment and the Body in the Hebrew Bible is the first monograph to treat dress and adornment in biblical literature in the English language. Beyond merely filling a gap in scholarship, the ... More


Only the Clothes on Her Back: Clothing and the Hidden History of Power in the Nineteenth-Century United States

Laura F. Edwards

Published in print:
2022
Published Online:
January 2022
ISBN:
9780197568576
eISBN:
9780197568606
Item type:
book
Publisher:
Oxford University Press
DOI:
10.1093/oso/9780197568576.001.0001
Subject:
History, American History: 19th Century

Only the Clothes on Her Back tells the history of law and commerce in the United States between the Revolution and the Civil War through textiles and the legal principles associated with them. Those ... More


Apparel Retailing in the United States: From Mom-and-Pop Shop to Transnational Corporation

Ellen Israel Rosen

in Making Sweatshops: The Globalization of the U.S. Apparel Industry

Published in print:
2002
Published Online:
March 2012
ISBN:
9780520233362
eISBN:
9780520928572
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of California Press
DOI:
10.1525/california/9780520233362.003.0010
Subject:
Sociology, Occupations, Professions, and Work

This chapter reviews the history of the U.S. retail industry and the role it played in the U.S. textile and apparel trade agenda. It also explains the links between the industry's corporate growth in ... More


Finally Free Trade: The Future of the Global Apparel Industry

Ellen Israel Rosen

in Making Sweatshops: The Globalization of the U.S. Apparel Industry

Published in print:
2002
Published Online:
March 2012
ISBN:
9780520233362
eISBN:
9780520928572
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of California Press
DOI:
10.1525/california/9780520233362.003.0011
Subject:
Sociology, Occupations, Professions, and Work

This chapter demonstrates that the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) renewed the threat of low-wage competition by Asian firms. It is also shown that the China is a major competitor to the ... More


Erotics of the body politic: the naked and the clothed

Niharika Dinkar

in Empires of Light: Vision, Visibility and Power in Colonial India

Published in print:
2019
Published Online:
May 2020
ISBN:
9781526139634
eISBN:
9781526150387
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Manchester University Press
DOI:
10.7765/9781526139641.00012
Subject:
Art, Art History

A discourse on veiling and unveiling was implicated in changing notions of the body in nineteenth century India, prominent amongst which was the place of the female nude. Introduced by European ... More


Agreement on Textiles and Clothing

Petros C. Mavroidis

in The Regulation of International Trade: The WTO Agreements on Trade in Goods

Published in print:
2016
Published Online:
January 2017
ISBN:
9780262029995
eISBN:
9780262333719
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
The MIT Press
DOI:
10.7551/mitpress/9780262029995.003.0010
Subject:
Political Science, Political Economy

This chapter focuses on the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing, the second sector-specific agreement that remained outside the GATT and was introduced to the WTO discipline following the end of the ... More


The Daily Life of an Organist

Andrew Talle

in Beyond Bach: Music and Everyday Life in the Eighteenth Century

Published in print:
2017
Published Online:
September 2018
ISBN:
9780252040849
eISBN:
9780252099342
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of Illinois Press
DOI:
10.5622/illinois/9780252040849.003.0012
Subject:
Music, History, Western

Chapter eleven presents a case study of a professional organist named Carl August Hartung whose everyday life is unusually well documented by an account book he kept for thirteen years, from the age ... More


Fashioning the Colonial Subject: Clothing

Barbara L. Voss

in The Archaeology of Ethnogenesis: Race and Sexuality in Colonial San Francisco

Published in print:
2015
Published Online:
September 2015
ISBN:
9780813061252
eISBN:
9780813051277
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University Press of Florida
DOI:
10.5744/florida/9780813061252.003.0010
Subject:
Archaeology, Historical Archaeology

At the Presidio of San Francisco, dress was a central practice involved in the process of Spanish-colonial ethnogenesis. Many studies of identity transformation in the Spanish Americas have suggested ... More


Outward Spiral: Gendering through Recognisability

Maria Sulimma

in Gender and Seriality: Practices and Politics of Contemporary US Television

Published in print:
2021
Published Online:
May 2022
ISBN:
9781474473958
eISBN:
9781474495240
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Edinburgh University Press
DOI:
10.3366/edinburgh/9781474473958.003.0006
Subject:
Film, Television and Radio, Film

The chapter focuses on How to Get Away with Murder’s black, female protagonist Annalise Keating, and in different sections provides readings of beauty and professional appearance (in contrast with ... More


Clothing and Jewellery

Judith Ruderman

in The Edinburgh Companion to D. H. Lawrence and the Arts

Published in print:
2020
Published Online:
September 2021
ISBN:
9781474456623
eISBN:
9781474496056
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Edinburgh University Press
DOI:
10.3366/edinburgh/9781474456623.003.0025
Subject:
Literature, Criticism/Theory

This chapter explores the close attention that Lawrence paid to clothing and jewellery. Lawrence had a keen eye for dress and adornment: for its utility, aesthetic qualities and assertions of ... More


In the Bright Light

Phyllis Birnbaum

in Manchu Princess, Japanese Spy: The Story of Kawashima Yoshiko, the Cross-Dressing Spy Who Commanded Her Own Army

Published in print:
2015
Published Online:
November 2015
ISBN:
9780231152181
eISBN:
9780231526340
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Columbia University Press
DOI:
10.7312/columbia/9780231152181.003.0021
Subject:
History, Asian History

This chapter focuses on Kawashima Yoshiko's celebrity status following her exploits as commander of her own army during the Japanese occupation of China in 1931. Yoshiko basked in the bright light as ... More


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