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From Goodwill to Grunge: A History of Secondhand Styles and Alternative Economies

Jennifer Le Zotte

Published in print:
2017
Published Online:
September 2017
ISBN:
9781469631905
eISBN:
9781469631929
Item type:
book
Publisher:
University of North Carolina Press
DOI:
10.5149/northcarolina/9781469631905.001.0001
Subject:
History, American History: 20th Century

In this surprising new look at how clothing, style, and commerce came together to change American culture, Jennifer Le Zotte examines how secondhand goods sold at thrift stores, flea markets, and ... More


Commonwealth Preference: The Third Piece of Paper

Lawrence W. R. Mills

in Protecting Free Trade: The Hong Kong Paradox, 1947–97

Published in print:
2012
Published Online:
September 2012
ISBN:
9789888083985
eISBN:
9789882209084
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Hong Kong University Press
DOI:
10.5790/hongkong/9789888083985.003.0005
Subject:
Economics and Finance, South and East Asia

Commonwealth preference was a system of trade co-operation giving varying degrees of preference to products from members of the British Commonwealth. As a British colony, Hong Kong was eligible for ... More


“Unions with Brains” (1930)

The Nation

in Jewish Radicals: A Documentary History

Published in print:
2012
Published Online:
March 2016
ISBN:
9780814757437
eISBN:
9780814763469
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
NYU Press
DOI:
10.18574/nyu/9780814757437.003.0021
Subject:
History, Cultural History

This chapter extols both the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America and the International Ladies' Garment Workers Union for their innovations in the areas of education, social welfare, racial ... More


“Charlatans and Gangsters and Pompous Racketeers” (1938)

Jennie Cohen

in Jewish Radicals: A Documentary History

Published in print:
2012
Published Online:
March 2016
ISBN:
9780814757437
eISBN:
9780814763469
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
NYU Press
DOI:
10.18574/nyu/9780814757437.003.0025
Subject:
History, Cultural History

This chapter shows that corruption can plague even the progressive, well-managed unions. It presents a letter of protest by Jennie Cohen, a former member of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of ... More


Naked natives and noble savages: the cultural work of nakedness in imperial Britain

Philippa Levine

in The Cultural Construction of the British World

Published in print:
2015
Published Online:
May 2016
ISBN:
9780719097898
eISBN:
9781526104403
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Manchester University Press
DOI:
10.7228/manchester/9780719097898.003.0001
Subject:
History, Imperialism and Colonialism

By the middle of the eighteenth century, and as European colonialism became a dominating political force, the naked body had come to represent the savagery and backwardness of colonized and ... More


There’s No Place Like Home: Gender, Family, and the Confederate Alabama Household

Victoria E. Ott (ed.)

in War Matters: Material Culture in the Civil War Era

Published in print:
2018
Published Online:
May 2019
ISBN:
9781469643205
eISBN:
9781469643229
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of North Carolina Press
DOI:
10.5149/northcarolina/9781469643205.003.0009
Subject:
History, American History: 19th Century

The plain folk of Alabama who supported the Confederacy used household objects to craft a new identity. To express that identity, they made military uniforms and supplied foodstuffs for soldiers. But ... More


Dress, Adornment, and the Body in the Hebrew Bible

Laura Quick

Published in print:
2021
Published Online:
March 2021
ISBN:
9780198856818
eISBN:
9780191889967
Item type:
book
Publisher:
Oxford University Press
DOI:
10.1093/oso/9780198856818.001.0001
Subject:
Religion, Biblical Studies

Dress, Adornment and the Body in the Hebrew Bible is the first monograph to treat dress and adornment in biblical literature in the English language. Beyond merely filling a gap in scholarship, the ... More


Apparel Retailing in the United States: From Mom-and-Pop Shop to Transnational Corporation

Ellen Israel Rosen

in Making Sweatshops: The Globalization of the U.S. Apparel Industry

Published in print:
2002
Published Online:
March 2012
ISBN:
9780520233362
eISBN:
9780520928572
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of California Press
DOI:
10.1525/california/9780520233362.003.0010
Subject:
Sociology, Occupations, Professions, and Work

This chapter reviews the history of the U.S. retail industry and the role it played in the U.S. textile and apparel trade agenda. It also explains the links between the industry's corporate growth in ... More


Finally Free Trade: The Future of the Global Apparel Industry

Ellen Israel Rosen

in Making Sweatshops: The Globalization of the U.S. Apparel Industry

Published in print:
2002
Published Online:
March 2012
ISBN:
9780520233362
eISBN:
9780520928572
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of California Press
DOI:
10.1525/california/9780520233362.003.0011
Subject:
Sociology, Occupations, Professions, and Work

This chapter demonstrates that the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) renewed the threat of low-wage competition by Asian firms. It is also shown that the China is a major competitor to the ... More


Erotics of the body politic: the naked and the clothed

Niharika Dinkar

in Empires of Light: Vision, Visibility and Power in Colonial India

Published in print:
2019
Published Online:
May 2020
ISBN:
9781526139634
eISBN:
9781526150387
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Manchester University Press
DOI:
10.7765/9781526139641.00012
Subject:
Art, Art History

A discourse on veiling and unveiling was implicated in changing notions of the body in nineteenth century India, prominent amongst which was the place of the female nude. Introduced by European ... More


Agreement on Textiles and Clothing

Petros C. Mavroidis

in The Regulation of International Trade: The WTO Agreements on Trade in Goods

Published in print:
2016
Published Online:
January 2017
ISBN:
9780262029995
eISBN:
9780262333719
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
The MIT Press
DOI:
10.7551/mitpress/9780262029995.003.0010
Subject:
Political Science, Political Economy

This chapter focuses on the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing, the second sector-specific agreement that remained outside the GATT and was introduced to the WTO discipline following the end of the ... More


The Daily Life of an Organist

Andrew Talle

in Beyond Bach: Music and Everyday Life in the Eighteenth Century

Published in print:
2017
Published Online:
September 2018
ISBN:
9780252040849
eISBN:
9780252099342
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of Illinois Press
DOI:
10.5622/illinois/9780252040849.003.0012
Subject:
Music, History, Western

Chapter eleven presents a case study of a professional organist named Carl August Hartung whose everyday life is unusually well documented by an account book he kept for thirteen years, from the age ... More


Fashioning the Colonial Subject: Clothing

Barbara L. Voss

in The Archaeology of Ethnogenesis: Race and Sexuality in Colonial San Francisco

Published in print:
2015
Published Online:
September 2015
ISBN:
9780813061252
eISBN:
9780813051277
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University Press of Florida
DOI:
10.5744/florida/9780813061252.003.0010
Subject:
Archaeology, Historical Archaeology

At the Presidio of San Francisco, dress was a central practice involved in the process of Spanish-colonial ethnogenesis. Many studies of identity transformation in the Spanish Americas have suggested ... More


In the Bright Light

Phyllis Birnbaum

in Manchu Princess, Japanese Spy: The Story of Kawashima Yoshiko, the Cross-Dressing Spy Who Commanded Her Own Army

Published in print:
2015
Published Online:
November 2015
ISBN:
9780231152181
eISBN:
9780231526340
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Columbia University Press
DOI:
10.7312/columbia/9780231152181.003.0021
Subject:
History, Asian History

This chapter focuses on Kawashima Yoshiko's celebrity status following her exploits as commander of her own army during the Japanese occupation of China in 1931. Yoshiko basked in the bright light as ... More


Design for ageing well

Jane McCann and Tracey Williamson

in The New Dynamics of Ageing Volume 1

Published in print:
2018
Published Online:
September 2018
ISBN:
9781447314721
eISBN:
9781447314745
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Policy Press
DOI:
10.1332/policypress/9781447314721.003.0010
Subject:
Sociology, Gerontology and Ageing

This chapter discusses the collaborative research project ‘Design for Ageing that brought together stakeholders from academia and industry, to engage with active ageing participants in the co-design ... More


Cataclysm: The Earthquake Disaster as a Lived and Reported Experience

J. Charles Schencking

in The Great Kant? Earthquake and the Chimera of National Reconstruction in Japan

Published in print:
2013
Published Online:
November 2015
ISBN:
9780231162180
eISBN:
9780231535069
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Columbia University Press
DOI:
10.7312/columbia/9780231162180.003.0002
Subject:
History, Asian History

This chapter reviews the experiences of people who survived the Great Kantō Earthquake. It also presents facts and figures brought by the destruction. The earthquakes did more than just destroy homes ... More


Readjustment: Rebuilding Tokyo from the Ashes

J. Charles Schencking

in The Great Kant? Earthquake and the Chimera of National Reconstruction in Japan

Published in print:
2013
Published Online:
November 2015
ISBN:
9780231162180
eISBN:
9780231535069
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Columbia University Press
DOI:
10.7312/columbia/9780231162180.003.0009
Subject:
History, Asian History

This chapter analyzes some controversial policies enacted during the reconstruction of Tokyo after the Great Kantō Earthquake. It stresses the policy of kukaku seiri or land readjustment, an idea ... More


The Beauty in Men’s Clothing

Phyllis Birnbaum

in Manchu Princess, Japanese Spy: The Story of Kawashima Yoshiko, the Cross-Dressing Spy Who Commanded Her Own Army

Published in print:
2015
Published Online:
November 2015
ISBN:
9780231152181
eISBN:
9780231526340
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Columbia University Press
DOI:
10.7312/columbia/9780231152181.003.0008
Subject:
History, Asian History

This chapter focuses on the writer Muramatsu Shōfū's connection to Kawashima Yoshiko. Shōfū was the author of the best-selling novel The Beauty in Men's Clothing, which was based on Yoshiko's life. ... More


The war economy, 1941–45

Philip Ollerenshaw

in Northern Ireland in the Second World War: Politics, economic mobilisation and society, 1939–45

Published in print:
2013
Published Online:
January 2014
ISBN:
9780719090509
eISBN:
9781781706206
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
Manchester University Press
DOI:
10.7228/manchester/9780719090509.003.0004
Subject:
Political Science, UK Politics

In this chapter, the experience of agriculture and key industries including textiles and clothing, shipbuilding and aircraft manufacture are considered, as are labour and industrial relations and how ... More


Getting beyond Racial, Ethnic, Religious, and Skill-Based Divisions

Lisa Phillips

in A Renegade Union: Interracial Organizing and Labor Radicalism

Published in print:
2012
Published Online:
April 2017
ISBN:
9780252037320
eISBN:
9780252094507
Item type:
chapter
Publisher:
University of Illinois Press
DOI:
10.5406/illinois/9780252037320.003.0003
Subject:
History, American History: 20th Century

This chapter illustrates how Local 65, at the time of its Congress of Industrial Organizations (CIO) affiliation, was predominantly Jewish and had organized people at all skill levels in small ... More


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